When someone in the United States once served in the armed forces, a military honor guard presented a folded American flag to his family while delivering the service at the cemetery.
Many people buy three wooden ones.
There is the corner flag box in front of the glass.
Although a cheap flag box costs only $20, a decent box made of solid wood can cost more than $100.
In this link, you can read the meaning of the flag folding and other things related to the ceremony.
When my wife's father died a few years ago, I chose to defend him with the flag of the coffin.
He served in the American army in the Philippines during World War II.
The first step is to measure the folded flag.
I am making a paper sample with a newspaper.
The position of the flag is 3/4 of the space around it for making the wood of the box.
The flag is 5 feet long and 1/2 long.
Folded, 17 5/8 on both sides.
The third is 25 5/16.
The folded flag has 3 1/4 thick.
Look at the second photo.
Depending on the tightness of the flag folding, your size may vary.
Over the years, friends have given me some black walnut wood that I keep.
Finally, it's time to use some of them.
Although these parts may have been planed once, the edges are not always true.
Here is a description of the process I used on the radial arm saw to get a straight working edge of a piece of wood that may not be straight.
Most flag case projects are made with a table saw and some special fixtures.
I don't have a table saw, so I use a radial arm saw.
Click this link for steps-by-
Instructions on the steps to make a flag box with a table saw.
If you would like to see a photo of the process with a table saw, click on this link.
I know the length of the three pieces I need.
The width of the banner thickness will be 3 1/4, the width of the glass thickness will be 1/8, and the width of the glass thickness will be 1/4 to make the finished forming edge in front of the glass plus plywood behind the 1/4 case.
The part shown here is a little larger than the size above.
After discussing with my wife, I measured again and realized that I needed to trim the sizes a little bit to make them fit the dimensions referenced above. )
I found that there was also something bent inside my walnut shards.
I can ignore it and hope it is the best or I can build a flat surface on each side.
The easy way to do this is to use a large planing bed, but I don't.
I can install a rotary planing bed on my radial arm saw to do a credible job.
The photo shows the rotating planing bed attachment on my saw and the motor shaft moves to the vertical position.
I locked the workpiece with a fence and two stops.
The thickness of the fence and block is slightly smaller than the workpiece.
Bright green lines show a fixed position at the end of the workpiece.
The blue line shows how the fence holds the workpiece.
I press and hold the planing bed with one hand and pass the planing bed through the width of the workpiece.
On the right front side of the workpiece, you can see something blue pushed down the corner of the workpiece.
This is the cardboard of 12 packs of canned soft drinks.
When I press the corner of the workpiece, I find that the corner rises from the workbench.
I folded a thin piece of cardboard and pushed it under the corner as a gasket until the workpiece could not shake.
Then I started to cut lightly with a rotating planing bed while holding the workpiece firmly.
After each cut, I move the saw arm, lock it, and pull the planing bed over the workpiece again.
This process will take a relatively flat and real surface at the top of the workpiece.
The rotary planing bed does leave the mark and Whirlpool that needs to be removed later.
Here you can see the traces and swirls left by the rotating planing bed.
Careful use of manual aircraft will be possible to remove these.
A very sharp blade is needed.
I chose a Sander.
Try to keep the sanding machine moving so that part of the workpiece is not polished more than any other part.
This will introduce more errors you are trying to remove.
When implementing a real face on each workpiece, flip them and plane on the other side.
No cardboard gasket is needed this time.
Assuming the Workbench is real, the workpiece should now be able to be placed evenly on the flat workbench.
You don't need to dig the second side by pulling the planing bed to the workpiece, however, you can use the fence as a guide, lock the motor down, and push the workpiece below, like a wooden board.
Do a few light cuts.
Remove any traces using a Sander.
I would like to check how well I have done in terms of getting a flat surface without the distortion of the workpiece.
An old trick is to hang two squares on the wood, one at each end.
Then bend over to see if the top edge of the square is parallel to each other.
See the red line.
You will prompt more than this photo, but I want the audience to see the relationship between the square and the workpiece.
Correct with a Sander until the edges of the square are parallel.
This will be the surface of the wood to be completed.
I connect the edges by passing the workpiece between my sanding drum and the fence.
See this description for more details.
If you have a planing bed, you can do this on it.
I don't have a bed.
The back of the flag box will be 1/4 plywood.
Carefully select which side of each piece should be the side of the finished product and mark it well.
Rabbet, so that the full box can be installed in the back.
I chose to shape the remaining three corners with rounded corners.
One end of each shorter part is diagonally connected.
I clip each piece on the table and place a block at the end of each piece before cutting because the workpiece is sometimes pulled slightly into the saw.
These parts are cut from the opposite side of the saw, because one of them must be the opposite side of the mirror or the other.
I always use a pencil to mark the cut outline on the edge of the wood, so that I am not too easy to get confused, and it is not easy to ruin a good piece of wood because of the wrong direction of cutting the Mitter.
Look at the second photo.
I have some plexiglass for another project and I want to use it instead of the real glass in front of this flag box.
The thickness of one of my 7 1/4 circular saw blades is closer to the thickness of the plexiglass than the 10 inch blade I usually use on the radial arm saw, so I am using a smaller diameter blade.
Make the cut at least 1/4 deep.
Sometimes the Mitter cut is not as real as expected and I need to make a very slight adjustment.
By clamping the straight fence on the workpiece, I can lean it against the straight edge of a small raised table I made as an attachment.
The workpiece moves on the sand Mill drum attached to my saw for cutting.
The grinding roller is consistent with the angle of the Mitter I need.
The grinding drum is cut very slightly on each pass and allows fine tuning for better fit.
This work is pushed from the left side of the photo to the right, while firmly leaning it against the auxiliary desktop and firmly resting on the top of the auxiliary desktop.
The angle of the grinding roller can be adjusted in a very small increment in order to better fit on the herringbone.
The banner of the flag box forms a 45-degree angle.
This means that the parts that form these corners must be angled to 22. 5 degrees each.
When I tried to install a saw for a 22 year old.
5 degree cutting, blade shield blocked the workpiece, so I can't pull the saw motor along the arm for cutting.
Removing the blade shield can set the cut, but this will put my hands in too much danger.
I carefully marked the outline of the wound with a pencil.
While leaving a lot of extra material, I cut the herringbone with a handsaw.
Then, I use the sand Mill drum device you see in this photo to polish the excess parts into the right length and angle.
It's a T in the photo.
Inclined square set to 22.
Ordinary protractor 5 degrees.
It is located on a square of ordinary 45 degree and 90 degree aluminum speed.
One of the pieces I cut, polished into 22 pieces.
5 degrees against the T-bladebevel square.
You can see the edge of the Speed Square along the length of the workpiece.
The Mitter looks almost right, but does need a little fine tuning later on.
When the parts have a good initial fit, it is time to cut the front of the plexiglass and the back of the plywood.
I cut both with a saw and a ruler.
The back of the plywood has been cut, as you can see from the triangular fragments lost under the plexiglass.
Be very careful.
The Saw's shoes easily scratch the plexiglass, even through a protective film.
The second photo shows (
How do I determine the size of the plexiglass.
The process on the back of the plywood is the same except on rabbet and not on the kerf of the plexiglass.
When I glued all the blocks together and screwed them to the right position, I dried the plexiglass and found that I still needed to trim a small amount from one side so that all joints could be installed properly.
I try to drill holes for short pins to make stronger joints in the 90 degree upper right corner of the flag box, but there are too many inaccuracies in using wooden pins.
I have another plan for these holes that will be explained later in Step 17.
The logo case linked in step 2 is planned to use a large cut and tooth line that goes through the Mitter joint to increase additional strength.
I want to avoid these because I don't think they are beautiful.
I have seen a woodworking program in the public broadcasting system, and the host made a flag box in it.
I saw it too-
Mark the line of the box.
These are linked in step 2.
The two did something different than what I chose to do.
I chose to stick the shorter two walnut blocks to the back of the plywood.
This makes the shell a structural part of the final assembly.
First stick the shorter parts shown in the photo together.
In the process of assembly, although there is good technology and careful planning, there will be a very small difference suddenly.
Even if the requirements in step 12 are exceeded, the Mitter may need a little trim and installation to compensate.
Test the installation of the Mitter angle and look for the gap in each step of the Assembly.
By pulling a piece of sandpaper between the two aligned sandpaper, the Mitter fit can be further improved, just like when the flag box is finished.
After passing the sandpaper through the joint to remove a few irregularities, keep the joint on the light source to see if any part of the Mitter joint requires more cutting action.
Check the irregularities in the joint to determine which side of the sand should be when sandpaper is passed through the joint.
It may be necessary to have some sand on one side and turn it over.
This precise fitting should be unnecessary, but despite the most careful precautions I have taken, my joints still have minor defects and I need to make corrections before final assembly.
This is the joint between the base and one side of it.
A good tight connection has been installed on the other side.
I have drilled holes for the wood screws and inserted the screws to secure the base in place.
This allows for a better result, more predictable and more accurate in the remaining corners.
For more information on screw placement, see steps 18 and 19.
When you are sexy enough to be satisfied with the reclining fit, prepare to glue the second piece in place to form a 90 degree angle on the top of the flag box.
Although not shown in the photo, apply woodworking glue on the mating surface.
I have tried to drill holes for short pins to make stronger joints.
However, it turns out that it is too difficult to get the correct alignment on the hole.
I decided to fill each hole with hot glue and pair it quickly before the hot glue starts to install.
My theory is that the hot glue on both sides will flow into the hot glue from the other side and blend together.
This will form a pile of hardened hot glue that can be perfectly aligned from one side to the other even if the holes are not aligned.
I call these liquid pins. Do they work?
Join Together, as usually expected.
I took it tightly for a few minutes until I thought the hot glue had started to harden.
Then I clamp the joints in the traditional way.
To know the exact effect, I need to rip the joints by hand, but I am fairly confident that these hot glue pins will make it harder to separate the joints.
This is the first time I have tried my liquid pin.
This is a new idea I developed in this project.
There needs to be some careful thought on how the base members connect to the other two frame members and the back.
For some reason, you may want to remove the flag in the future.
The plexiglass may be scratched and you will want to replace it.
Or, if the real glass is broken, you will want to replace it.
In addition, you want to finish the wooden parts before installing the glass and the flag, or the wood stains and varnish may leave residue on the flag or glass.
I would like a way to open the flag box at any time to replace the glass or adjust the flagpole, but I would like the base to provide additional structural integrity for the flag box.
I chose to use four brass wood screws of 6 with oblique heads, which are 1 1/4 long.
This photo shows approximately the position and manner of the screws inside the wood.
The screw is angled inward at the top even more than it is shown in the photo.
They will provide enough grip but will not break through the finish edge.
There seems to be gaps in this joint, but this is only because there is nothing to clamp the joint together.
When the two pieces are pressed together, it is actually very suitable and there is no gap.
In the second step, I linked the information about making the logo box with a table saw.
In these plans, the base members are glued to the other two, but the glass can still be disassembled by passing through the slots of the base.
The slot is closed with loose flower strips.
By 2 feet made of square material, the flower column is kept in place.
While this is an option, this is not what I want in my flag case.
I used a banner of masking tape on the drill bit as a drill block to prevent me from drilling too deep and risking drilling on the finished surface.
I used two drill bits and a sink head.
For the thickness of the screw thread part, the first bit is selected and the whole depth is entered.
Then I drilled a larger diameter with only the depth of the length of the screw handle.
Finally, I use the counter head to embed the screw head slightly below the finished surface.
The second photo shows that the screws on one of the corners are fully in place.
This is the case of the national flag after polishing with Danish oil.
We can also add a carved brass nameplate to the front center of the base.